The reincarnation chic in Tbilisi

The historic capital of Georgia is undergoing a rebirth as Soviet-era buildings acquire contemporay shapes.
The reincarnation chic in Tbilisi

Tbilisi—the capital of Georgia, tucked between Russia and Turkey—is a patchwork of eclectic architectural styles, from art nouveau buildings to gothic and baroque churches and stark Soviet architecture. Though earthquake, invasions and Soviet occupation destroyed many of the city’s heritage buildings several times in the past, Old Tbilisi stands high with a mix of the old and the new. The city has come out of its turbulent past, re-inventing many old buildings into new avatars. Creative spirits are at work everywhere—Soviet-era factories, warehouses in disuse, and crumbling Old Town houses are being reinvented as swish bars, restaurants, cultural centres and boutiques.

As one walks through the city, one can see many such examples of urban regeneration. One such structure is Fabrika, an old Soviet-era sewing factory, that has been converted into an industrial-chic and minimalistic hostel, with art and craft shops, as well as a café. The property is a canvas for creativity. The shops stock retro posters, stationary, glass ware and funky bags. The courtyard of the hostel is a lively place in the evenings with fairy lights strung above and wooden pallets for seating; it’s buzzing with young people meeting for a drink.

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Clockwise from above:

Everything from the design elements to the grungy look of the hammocks, chairs, indoor plants, striking kilims on the floor in the open plan lounge area, to the bright red staircase gives a lovely look to the area. Even the reception desk is an old piece of salvaged factory equipment. The best part of the building is the façade that is decorated with street art and tasteful graffiti. The courtyard lined with cafes, hipster stores, ceramic studio, a plant shop, artists’ studios, and pop-ups is a perfect place for an evening stroll. The hostel hosts exhibitions, experimental shows, and yoga classes on its rooftop.

Scattered around old town are old caravanserais—with storage on the ground floor and accommodation on the floors above—where traders on the Silk route used to camp with their caravans and camels, in the past. Today some of these magnificent buildings have been refurbished meticulously, like the one which houses the Tbilisi Museum of History and has boutiques selling local crafts and art. With high ceilings, three floors of galleries, and wrought iron frame work, this building is a stunner.

Another great restoration is the charming Café Littera in the Sololaki neighbourhood, housed in an old Art Deco mansion from 1903, with limited edition ceramic tiles in the hall made by Villeroy and Bosch. This house that once belonged to a Georgian philanthropist and brandy magnate is now the property of the Georgian Writers’ Union. The restaurant started by local celebrity chef Tekuna Gachechiladze has a lush outdoor garden, busts of famous writers and Georgian food with a modern twist; this is a magical place to be in the evenings.

Meidan Bazaar is one of the oldest shopping spaces in the city; it was always the commercial centre of the city and has existed since 5th century. Today, this cavernous underground space has been re-invented as a market that sells all things Georgian from the local tipple cha-cha in colourful clay containers, to local tea and Georgian wine, to posters, cheese and jewellery.

The most sensitive restoration and re-invention in town is probably the Rooms Hotel, an erstwhile Soviet Publishing House building repurposed as a boutique hotel. This eight-floor property has 125 rooms and suites, and its atrium style walls bring in sunshine, while salvaged wood and industrial window frames add a rustic character. History whispers from every corner of the hotel—the ceiling frescoes in the conference room and the retro rotary dial telephones. The owner, Demur Ugulava, was
inspired by 1930s New York and to bring in that vibe, claw foot bath tubs have been installed
and floors have also been made of wood.

Everywhere in Tbilisi, there  are signs of a new Georgia, making a break from its past. While preserving its history and embracing the future, the city has shown resilience and a talent for reinventing itself beautifully.

How to reach
By air: Tbilisi International Airport is 17 km from Tbilisi’s city centre
By road: Trains ply from Yerevan, Armenia and Azerbaijan to Tbilisi Central Station

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