Producer pairs exceptional wines with ‘authentic expressions of Virginia cuisine’

There are more than 300 wineries operating today in Virginia, stretching from the suburbs of Washington D.C. to the coastal area of the state around Williamsburg and Virginia Beach to the Shenandoah Valley and finally to the numerous producers that dot the hills around Charlotteville.

Among the northernmost wineries in the central Virginia region is Early Mountain Vineyards, located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The address is 6109 Wolftown-Hood Road, in Madison, a little more than a three-hour drive from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, and around 100 minutes from D.C.

Per the history tab on the winery website, Jess and Sharon Sweely planted the first vineyards on the property a little less than 20 years ago. Jean Case and her husband, Steve, purchased the property in 2010 and, after some renovations, re-opened it under the Early Mountain brand in 2012.

In 2015, Early Mountain expanded its acreage to include Quaker Run Vineyard, 14 miles north of the Early Mountain estate in Madison County. Doing so allowed it to increase its acreage of classic Bordeaux-type varietals such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot and add new varietals including Malvasia Bianca, Sauvignon Blanc, and Tannat. All together the winery sources 55 acres and provides details on the vineyard areas and the grapes grown in each on one of its website tabs.

In 2016, Early Mountain Vineyards was voted the No. 1 tasting room in the country by USA Today in its 10 Best Readers Choice contest. It was the lone winery among the 10 that wasn’t located on the West Coast.

Guests can visit the tasting room for its award-winning wines or to dine in its restaurant. Its menu is accessible at this link.

Early Mountain also has a wine club that allows customers to receive its wines quarterly and to attend special events.

It’s open to the public Thursday through Monday from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Reservations are recommended for its elevation tasting, tasting room and patio. Walk-ins are welcome to the Meadow (weather permitting). The full scope of the visiting options can be found at this link.

The portfolio offers a mix of red and white varietals and blends, ranging in price from $24 to $48, with its Petit Mensang ($65) and red blend called Rise ($150, with 57% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 14% Petit Verdot, 11% Tannat in the current vintage for sale) as the exceptions.

Maya Hood White is the winemaker, a California native who studied mathematics and engineering at Virginia Tech before switching gears and earning an M.S. in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis. Her research focused on time-dependent sensory profiles and bubble nucleation of sparkling wine, as well as studies of Viognier wines from France, California and Virginia.

The release sent out by the winery when she named winemaker in August 2022 included this quote from well-known enological consultant Paul Hobbs:” “Maya brings the rare combination of detailed knowledge in both the vineyard and winery whereas most in this industry focus on only one. She is a thoughtful winemaker with serious analytical chops able to craft wines of texture, complexity, and beauty.”

Maya responded recently to these questions from PennLive, making this the second in the “Grape Escape 2024″ series of profiles on Eastern wineries.

1, In your mind, what makes Early Mountain unique and worth the visit?

A, At Early Mountain, our wine production is deeply rooted in the philosophy of thoughtful and low-intervention farming and winemaking. We specialize in rich, extractive red blends from our Quaker Run Vineyard. Alongside our reds, we also boast a dynamic white wine program, championing the distinctive Petit Manseng. Our approach ensures that each bottle reflects the unique character and quality of our vineyards.

Early Mountain also has an exciting culinary program, headed up by chef Tim Moore. Executive Chef Tim Moore’s culinary experience, including his time as sous chef at the Inn at Little Washington, brings new and authentic expressions of Virginia cuisine to the forefront celebrating all that the state has to offer. In turn, our hospitality team showcases the role that Early Mountain wines can play in an elevated culinary experience. I love that Early Mountain’s customers get to see how well our wines pair with the food Chef Tim prepares and love hearing how many people come back to the winery for both the food and the wine.

Q, How much do you get into the vineyards and are there characteristics specific to the vineyard (climate, soils) at Early Mountain as compared to Quaker Run?

A, In addition to overseeing production at Early Mountain, I also oversee grape-growing. So, I get into the vineyard quite a bit! Quaker Run and Early Mountain, while close in proximity, are very different sites. Quaker Run is located on a mountainside and formed by a landslide. With well-drained colluvial soils, its high rock and mineral diversity is not typically found at this elevation. It also shows its own microclimate, with different weather patterns and constant airflow. It is this site where our more extractive red varieties thrive. It is home to Tannat, Merlot and a small bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. These contribute to our Rise, Eluvium and Novum blends, but we also look to show some of these varieties as single-varietal and site-specific wines.

Early Mountain, while about 9 miles away, as the crow flies, is comprised of heavier soils, those with a bit more clay. It is a site where our Petit Manseng really thrives. We find this site really leans into the density Petit Manseng can bring.

Q, I’m very impressed with what you’ve done on the website regarding your grape varieties and the overview. It adds an extra layer of information and depth about the place. Something you did or was that done before you got there? Either way, kudos.

A. Thank you! The website was redesigned by our director of marketing, prioritizing education, and focusing on our growing and winemaking practices.

Q, Are you seeing increasing interest in a couple of your grapes/wines that have prompted more vines to be planted?

A, We are seeing a greater interest in varieties that are maybe less known on the global stage, like Petit Manseng and Tannat. These are varieties that excel at our sites and as a winegrowing team, making site-based planting decisions is particularly exciting for us. With this enthusiasm, we have an ongoing program to expand these plantings, allowing us to enhance our offerings in both Tannat and Petit Manseng.

Q, Always like to ask when you do get time to get away, do you have any specific hobbies or pursuits? Is there even a slow time anymore?

A, Free time?! In all seriousness, there are some slower times. However, we are at the beginning of the growing season, so it doesn’t quite feel like it now! In all reality, I am a pretty boring person. Yoga has been part of my life for many decades, so whether that is a hobby, I am unsure. Otherwise, reading is always part of my free time as well as hanging out with my cats.

Q, And is there a favorite time of the year for you in the role you have there?

A, I don’t think I could not say harvest for my favorite time of the year. While each season is so important, as we only get one chance a year to get each part of the growing and winemaking right, harvest is when it all comes together.

Q, What do you say are a couple of the biggest challenges of making wine on the East Coast and particularly where you are located?

A, Like any growing region, site, climate, and weather patterns, all make the biggest impact. With that, making intelligent planting and farming decisions can make a world of difference in vineyard inputs. However, I would note that some of the less discussed challenges we see on the East Coast are infrastructure and education. While a native of California, my family moved to Virginia when I was a teenager. I discovered an interest in wine on the East Coast but chose to return to California for graduate school, as the East Coast does not have as much educational support for grape growing and wine production. Without that education and experience, I don’t think I would be able to produce the Early Mountain wines in Virginia that I am so proud of now.